So, I recently experienced cable issues when I wanted to get into my VR experience like probably a good amount of people have experienced it.

To be clear, I'm no expert by any means. I can only share what I read and found out myself.

I would love to hear back what can be done or what exactly is going on. Preferably from someone who actually worked or works on these things at Oculus.

Enough of the introduction, let's get into it.

My cable broke somewhere inside, give it a little wiggle and it drops out. Give it another and you maybe get a connection back until it wiggles a bit again. I'm very excited for the replacement coming in. Thank you for that already.

First off, maybe thicker wiring would improve overall strength of the cable, but would come with the tradeoff of being less flexible probably. Really depends how thick you're going.
Second off, this Headset is Cable only (at least as the time of writing this) and therefore this is a part that most likely gets the most wear and tear in the whole system, depending on the user. It definitely is a part that can and will break at some point.
So, if there is any way of getting to buy one or multiple, in case someone wants to keep spares, that would be awesome. Not only would Oculus do some sales (in my opinion, don't know how if it would be a big profit maker, but definitely gets you some reputation points for sure), they would also improve reputation and make them more appealing to recommend to others.
If you can't get replacements for something that would break at some point for sure, what's the point in buying it to then be left alone in the long run.
To be fair, I got a replacement and the support is great, but options for people to buy it, would be so much appreciated.

Coming back to the actual cable build quality. I run computer fans on my ceiling and probably will add more in the future. Yes, not everyone would do that and certainly there probably isn't many people doing that.
But what I found out is, 12 Volts can easily disrupt the visual signal if it gets too close to the cable.

Running DC fans, they ramp up in voltage depending on their Speed. Up until 12 Volts. I've tested DC and PWM. The more you get to 12 Volts, the more I could see green, blue and red pixels dancing around or being static. Atleast for the last pieces of signal I could get out of the cable. This becomes especially noticeable if it happens in the middle of the screen for example.
PWM btw always runs on 12 Volts.

My conclusion from that is shielding. I didn't took the cable apart. So I can't guarantee my assumption is correct. But I assume either foil shielding or no shielding (which would surprise me tbh and isn't really acceptable by any means.)

From my Experience and work with CAT 7 Ethernet Copper cables (Yes fiber is better at some point and Ethernet and Displayport isnt the same, but at the end of the day they both carry a fair amount of data at a given point)
You're best with an S/FTP cable. Especially when you route it next to a power line (for example 220-240 Volts in my country).
S would be the indicator for a metal or copper braided shielding. F is the indicator for foil shielding and TP means twisted pair. In an S/FTP cable, the foil shielding is around every twisted pair. This means, multiple foils and one copper braiding around all of that.

Getting back to the Rift S cable, I don't know how much more effective a braided shielding is to be honest, but that could be a consideration. If its not much different (which I doubt but I could be wrong), we definitely need more layers then. Maybe a braiding inside the cable could also improve cable strength.

As for the other parts of the cable goes, besides shielding, from specifications the Rift S is rated for 1 Amp on 5 Volts. USB 3.0 (USB 3.1 Gen 1, thank you Compaq, DEC, IBM, Intel, Microsoft, NEC and Nortel for that nonsense) on the other hand, officially spits out a maximum of 0,9 Amps on 5 Volts. If that would help with signal strength or generally better power supply to everything, add another USB Cable for power delivery or something like that.

From what I found and roughly calculated, the Rift S is around 8Gbits of Bandwidth on 1440p at 80Hz.
That comes close to cat 7 copper (10Gbit). Probably need thicker wiring, going from the cables I worked with, being solid and also not really soo thin. Im sure someone is a better expert than me and knows better, but that is my input on that.

Thank you for reading it all, I know its a ton of text, but I hope it helps.

And for Oculus reading this, you probably can match all this information to the correct support ticket, don't want to call out anyone officially, but give the person I wrote that much text a raise.
Or something. They were very nice to talk to and I really appreciate the input and response about my information given. To be fair, people in support probably can't give out technical information or other information, they probably also don't even know or have access to. But atleast it's reached in and maybe and hopefully gets some thoughts about it.

Again, hopefully someone can respond with more technical information about this, if they are allowed to. If not, atleast mention that you can't talk about it :)

Thank you, I hope this helps

Hi Oculus,

I hope this gets voted.

It would be cool to let people @ Oculus know we Oculus Rift S users feel completely sidelined since the release of the Quest 2, and even more so know that you've screwed over people who forked over a lot of money for your products by artificially limiting the RE4 VR version to the Quest 2.

Don't stop supporting your other platforms.

Need we remind you that Rift S is still the best alternative to play PC VR today?

We all know about the performance issues the Quest 2 has with that overpriced Link Cable that should be included with the package, you know. like all the best companies that actually care about their consumers do.

Stop pushing so hard for your latest product that you run over the people that support your company.

Lone Echo supports several different international languages and many non-english speaking people worldwide played Lone Echo in their preferred (native) language.

And even though the Lone Echo II: Trailer Experience supports the most common non-english languages the full game doesn't include any languages besides english. RAD Studios even stated on twitter that there are no plans to localize the game.

This means every person who enjoyed Lone Echo with her/his preferred non-english language now is left behind and certainly feels betrayed, because either people don't understand english good enough or because they loved the dub/synchronization in their native language from LE1 and the trailer for LE2 and expected it to be in the full game too.

So please reconsider a localization for Lone Echo 2 when you already teased us like that

Hello,

I'm really shocked to see that the Oculus Rift (non S) that I purchased £399 on Oculus' official online store back in July 2017 (order number 61300514128687) can't be fixed - the batteries have worked themselves loose, triggering disconnexions, and on top of that the left headset is no longer working.

Talking to Oculus' support team, there are no spare parts nor any ways of fixing it with Oculus, even at an additional cost - the product has been discountinued and is no longer supported. I can say goodbye to my £399. Or try to fix it myself, if I don't damage it / electrocute myself etc...

It's crazy to think that such an expensive item, purchased by very supportive and enthusiast early adopters, is no longer supported after a couple of years. Clearly Facebook is not playing in the same league than Sony or Microsoft - when I faced an issue with an old Xbox, Microsoft fixed it for free and I didn't even pay for any shipping fees, though the console was no longer under warranty.

I can no longer trust Oculus nor Facebook brands when it come to the hardware and technical support... If you purchase new expensive VR headsets, please take this under consideration.

A (former) VR enthusiast,
David

Your OculusSetup.exe webservers are using deprecated encryption algorithms vulnerable to DROWN attacks.

<the_source.png>
DESCRIPTION: The encryption algo being used to send installation files for oculus drivers. As you can see, it is deprecated and anyone can decrypt/ perform a man in the middle attacks. This is a zero day type of exploit.

<the_packets.png>
DESCRIPTION: This the source IP address, meaning these SSLV2 packets are coming from "31.13.70.51" anyone can download wireshark, start the oculus client wait for the download to start the connection and then begin the wireshark capture, to capture the packets.

<trace_route.png>
DESCRIPTION: I then performed a trace route on the ip address just to make sure it was indeed in fact coming from oculus servers. It is.

CONCLUSION: Whoever is allowing this, needs to be fired. This is the epitome of not hashing a usernames password. Or in fact, this is the epitome of hashing a usernames password with sslv2 certificates. I wonder how much this would cost the company if this got revealed in court, millions suffered from financial damage, such as identity theft.

I've personally tested and used this method to completely wipe out stick drift from anywhere from 3 to 6 months no fiddling with settings required!

I've bought several replacement controllers over the years to replace the ones with unplayable stick drift and the cost started adding up quickly.

The solution you might ask, well its $8 and a trip to your local auto zone. Mass airflow sensor cleaner!

Surprisingly, I've had great success with this method follow it step by step and you'll soon find their back to normal

Please do this outside or in a well ventilated area ! (This method does not work for Liquid damaged controllers)

1. get the Mass airflow sensor cleaner, you can find this at autozone, amazon, or Napa autoparts.

2. remove the battery from your drifting controller, and put on a set of disposable gloves. Nitrile works best in my opinion.

3. using the long nozzle attachment, spray in and around the joy stick. taking care to saturate and massage it in by moving the stick in every direction. Don't flood it a quick 1 second spray will do and it dries extremely quickly

4. you may repeat the process as much as you like, (spraying, massaging, drying, repeat.) 2-4 treatments works best.

5. replace the battery and wipe off excess cleaner using a damp (NOT WET) paper towel.

6.get back to slaying undead hordes or whatever your fancy is!

Duly noted I've personally used this method on both controllers I have and have repeated this as of today, 7 times. I've found no issues with impacting other performance of joysticks ,buttons , electrical, or for that matter tracking.

Let it be said TRY AT YOUR OWN RISK, I've used this as a last ditch effort to remove the unplayable drift in my own controllers however I will not be legally obligated/liable to reimburse you for damages incurred using this method. Things happen, electrons are tiny and finnicky and things do happen.

This method has been my go to for drift in any forms of controllers including xbox and PS4.

For those who want more info on how it works continue reading, for those who got an itchy trigger finger happy hunting you've reached the end!

Stick drift occurs when oils, dirt, and skin cells (or that beer you spilled on your controller last night drunkenly playing that one chat game we all know and love) makes its way into the sensor module obviously messing up the sensitive components inside. This being said it starts to ***** with the tolerances inside the joystick or buttons thus, in turn giving false inputs when no user input is taking place.
Mass airflow sensor cleaner is used to remove grim and other **** from the sensor that tells your engine in your car how much air to give the throttle body so your car can burn gas/petrol (for our UK friends) more efficiently. The cleaner is designed to be non conductive so you don't have to worry about damaging sensitive electronic components. Dont ask me how the chemistry works behind it, I failed chem, im more of a design tech/ physics guy. That being said Have fun, Be Safe, and Happy Hunting!

Lots of love from my Headset to yours !

• BlissinBalance

If you wish to get into contact with me for assistance/questions you can do so on oculus @BlissinBalance or on snapchat @Xcr1msondeathX